No Hurry, No Wait

On moving meditations, gliders, and slowing down

Winter has arrived in the Southern Hemisphere. It couldn’t come sooner; this summer was a long one for surfers. Prolonged spells of flat seas left many praying for waves. With the return of winter, the southern oceans come alive with large swells that light up the coastline of South Africa with seemingly endless waves. Last winter was particularly significant as a dear friend shaped me a glider. A relatively uncommon shape in South Africa, gliders are long surfboards (11 feet or longer) designed to trim across the face of waves easily. 

Trim is a vital concept in surfing that vibrates beyond the ocean. ​​The act of trimming refers to balancing and steering a surfboard to move smoothly along the wave's face, maintaining speed and control. It's about finding the sweet spot where the board glides effortlessly, optimizing the surfer's position and board angle relative to the wave. This allows the surfer to travel in a steady, efficient line across the wave, ideally without making too many adjustments or sudden movements. Trimming is about achieving an optimal, harmonious ride on a wave. Gliders are all about trimming, but in finding this balance, they provide deeper lessons.

Mainstream modern surfing has evolved into an aggressive attempt to master waves through wild turns without much concern for trimming. If you watch the World Surf League or any major competition, surfers ride short boards and look for any opportunity to turn and spray water. Surfers sometimes launch themselves out of the water and perform tricks that seem more accustomed to skateboarding.

When riding a glider, this is impossible. Gliders are surfboards that turn slow but move fast. Instead, a glider is designed to react to what the wave offers. As waves break on their path to the coastline, they crumble and open in unique ways. When riding a glider, the surfer is a passenger who reacts to how the wave is revealing itself [See the video above of me last winter in Cape Town]. Try to attempt something that isn’t there, and the board will stop. Relax and open yourself to the experience; the wave will reveal its speed pockets and put the board into trim. 

The feeling of being in full trim is hard to convey, but suffice it to say it’s the closest I have found to being fully present in the moment. When you are moving with the full energy of the wave, no other thoughts enter your mind. In the embrace of the wave, the surfer becomes a vessel of harmony, embodying the delicate balance between human intent and nature's rhythm. This synchronicity reveals a profound unity, where every movement resonates with the ocean's powerful pulse.

Sitting in the ocean and observing the animals around me, I am captivated by their graceful interaction with the waves and how they are reminiscent of riding a glider. Birds effortlessly swoop down to ride the powerful energy in front of the wave face just before the wave crashes towards the shore, seemingly basking in the moment without abrupt maneuvers or flips. They stay present, flowing with the wave until it fades, only to lift off and glide once again. Similarly, dolphins partake in this dance, often leaping from the water in displays of sheer joy. These moments reflect a beautiful, shared rhythm with nature.

This dance with the ocean contains a lesson. Given the speed at which our lives have evolved, we are all too often attempting to force things. In our relentless pursuit of progress and efficiency, we frequently overlook the joy and learning found in the slower moments. Constantly pushing forward, we risk missing the rich details and connections that unfold only when we pause and breathe.

Riding a glider thus becomes a form of moving meditation whereby one must clear the mind, take a deep breath, and be in the present moment. In that state, the right waves appear on the horizon, and the surfer becomes a quiet passenger, reacting to what the wave has to offer. For a fleeting moment, the surfer enjoys the presence of mind that deeper meditation can open. I am happy winter has returned. 

Department of Recommendations

I've been avidly tuning into The Emerald podcast for the past few months. I know the artwork looks a bit conspiratorial, but look past that. It's one of the best podcasts around. Every episode is thoroughly researched and expertly produced, making it difficult to recommend just one. However, start with this one and explore. It’s a much better use of time than trying this dystopian “non-invasive neural device to stabilize and induce lucid dreaming” from Prophetic.

Housekeeping note

You may have noticed that I've been absent from writing here recently. Life's whirlwind of personal matters necessitated a brief hiatus, but the allure of writing has drawn me back. In February, I completed a breathwork facilitator course, and I'm currently navigating through various case studies as a facilitator. It's been a transformative experience that I look forward to sharing over the coming months. I am working on a piece for next week about false messiahs, the Kabbalah, and some contemporary political issues. Thank you for your continued readership and support.